My disapprobation of three button suits has lingered for a while. I really can't stand them. Simply because of the stiff, boxed in effect they project. Watch an episode of Generations, and you'll see what I'm talking about. Some of the designs are awesome, truly inspiring but, add 3 buttons then, in my opinion, the whole suit loses flexibility and appeal. My biggest gripe with this suit is the dwarfed lapel often caused by the high button stance. The top button, especially if the lapel is canvassed, forces it into a stiff kink, which doesn't allow for any compromise with regards to its unbuttoning. The top button has to be fastened.
This is what I mean by the stiff, boxed-in effect. Aesthetically it is not appealing and so much is diminished by the high button stance. One really can't wear a tie bar because the tie is probably held firmly in place by the top button. So much of the shirt and tie is submerged unde the jacket, even when the top button is undone. What I have discovered are three button jackets that have a roll. A roll of the lapel that effects a two button look when the top button is not fastened. The image above is attempting a three-roll-two but is failing, simply because the lapel is pressed and canvassed, which mandates that the top button is fastened.
This post however is not a total indictment of the three button suit. No, not at all. It is just a difference of opinion even in the light of evidence that three button suits can be tasteful and exceptional. I regret why I never took pictures but, last week I took suits to my tailor to have them tailored in a few places. The biggest challenge, which my tailor found really daunting, was the removal of the top button and adjusting the lapel so that it would be a three button jacket. I am eargerly awaiting the results and will showcase them once ready. There is also one more suit I forgot to take which is in a sapphire blue shade. Since it is a heavier fabric I will have it fixed for winter 2011.
The above image illustrates a perfectly done three button jacket with a roll. Now this is a jacket I would definitely acquire because it appeals to my sensibilities and tastes. Flexible and flattering at the same time.
PG: Man to man, generation to generation.