Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Nothing Enervates Me Quite Like...

...jackets with no pocket flaps. Especially if it's not a tux or dinner jacket. I don't know why I didn't realise this at the time of purchase of this jacket. I don't understand this concept of jetted pockets on normal suit jackets. I surmise this was a trend some time ago. This past Sunday I witnessed a gentleman wearing a double breasted suit with a lower button stance. It was a 6x1, with jetted pockets. Juxtaposed with mine, on the very same day, I concluded that it must've been prevalent in the 80s, a decade when double breasted suits were the rage. The lower button stance, ventless back and jetted pockets, these were features of the suit. The aforementioned gentleman's jacket was exactly as described here.

Pocket flaps, for me, fulfill a purpose. An aesthetic one to be precise. Therefore this jacket seems imbalanced because of the glaring omission of pocket flaps. While we're on the issue I also want to explicate on the double breasted jacket and neck-tie combination. Especially where proportion of the tie width and jacket lapels are concerned.

Tie width has never been an issue when wearing a double breated jacket with a 6x2 button stance. Bar a slim tie, any other tie can work in such an ensemble because the button stance is higher and therefore allows for very little space for the tie to be displayed. On double breasted jackets with a lower button stance, whether 6x1 or 4x1 (like the one pictured), a tie with a narrow width simply doesn't work. The picture above clearly evinces this fact. Those lapels are so wide, they beat the tie into submission. The tie therefore seems like an after thought because the jacket and lapels took precedence. What would work then is a thicker, wider tie. This will ensure some semblance of symmetry and an ensemble where all your pieces get equal flourish and display.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

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