Tuesday, July 16, 2013

Cut 'n Sew: Shoddy Workmanship; The Light Grey Trousers


Following a previous post on four pairs of trousers I took to the Tailor Shop for major adjustments, I think it's only right that I report back on the individual results. Today I start with the light grey double pleated trousers.


First, a little provenance on these trousers. I bought them as part of a suit back in 2004/ 5, I don't remember properly. However my affinity for the colour grey is the same now as it was back then. I definitely didn't buy the suit on a whim because I had only one other suit. To me it was a worthwhile investment. What I hadn't considered was the size. I bought it in a size 44L; it was hopelessly long. But somehow I managed to feel good in it. Except for the pants, the waist and length were unsightly. I wore it over the years, even to a year end staff party and then, somehow, someway, I came to the realisation that it was a horrible fit. I think around that time I must've misplaced the jacket because I don't know what happnened to it. The trousers seem to have survived though, including a basting with glue but today I am proud to say I couldn't be happier with the fit.


I first tried them with a pair of navy blue suede chukka boots and I am happy that the length is not too long, as to cover the whole lacing part. I am also a fan of high-waisted trousers because they sit much better on my waist as opposed to my hips; which would lead to some discomfort. In high-waisted trousers I feel like I am wholly covered.


The measurements with this trouser are: 38 inch waist adjusted and altered to 34inches, the length is 42 inches, and the taper at the bottom is 16 inches. I find that a 16 inch opening works better with a pair of dress trousers as opposed to a smaller taper on a pair of casual trousers because for me dress trousers fall longer as opposed to the shorter or cropped aesthetic of casual pants.


I am also quite satisfied with the fit, especially with regards to the length, when I tried these trousers with a pair of dress shoes; penny loafers with a long vamp by Pringle. And the shoes and trousers do justice to one another. The trousers are not too long, they fall just a few centimetres shy of the heel and they don't cover the vamp at all.


This time I also made it a point to also check on the stitching on the hem and it was all done with a thread. I really don't foresee doing any more alterations because I am truly happy with the fit and the proportion, especially in relation to my body. So, when you're looking at trousers always take the waist, length and the hem into consideration. Our bodies relate and respond differently to the way they all fit, therefore, the necessary due diligence is required.

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