Monday, July 8, 2013

Cut 'n Sew: A Tight Seat

Menswear is about sartorial presentation. True sartorial enthusiasts and experts, however, know menswear to be about the details. The fit of a shirt, the length of the pants, the type of shoulder, and whether something is machine or hand sewn. All these factors work in concert to culminate in the most perfect of sartorial expressions. I’ve come to find that gentlemen who pick at their clothes whilst wearing them are either: trying to hide some ‘imperfections’ because they are not happy with the overall outcome or they are preening. This has been the case when it comes to a few pairs of pants I have been enduring simply because I’ve had to endure them.

They did not fit like this when I first bought them. I had them adjusted at the length, waist and hem. I was working with a certain result in mind but after some wear something was amiss. Unspeakable, extreme tightness in the seat of the pants. The image above evinces the restiction in movement that a tight seat causes.

This leads to a number of embarrassing things: the  tightness causes the pants to wrinkle just below the waistband, wrinkling which is not common with pants in a sturdy fabric, and wedging in between the upper thighs, crotch and rear. This also leads to unsightly outlines of contents in the pockets, the pockets are tight therefore pocketing of hands is an uncomfortable option, and the wedging can be so extreme so as to drive the pants up and create a cropped effect at the opening of the hem. Now, why would I pick at my pants all the time? It’s because they are so tight, that when I stand up I have to pull them down.

I'm fortunate that an outline of my underwear is not visible. Now this calls into question the tailoring/ alteration technique that was used, where alterations to the waist should impact on the waistband only and not beyond. The pants were also to be tapered, this should've been done from the knee down only. 

The tightness has even begun to wear and tear at the seams. It might not be as visible but there is a little hole starting to develop just below the inseam. I keep in pretty good shape. I'm not ripped or defined like that but I am also not overweight. So the tightness of the seat is not anatomical it's something that needs to be rectified at the tailor's room. This is not only a problem common with flat front trousers, pleated trousers, as well, can be affected.

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