Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Style: High Armhole Jacket + Low Armhole Shirt = No Cuff Showing

One thing I forgot to add in Monday's post about the navy blue suit is that the jacket sleeves were a tad long and I had them altered because it's only right that some shirt cuff show. The guideline is that at least two inches of shirt cuff should show. I was taken aback a bit when I discovered that even after having the sleeves altered on my jacket I had little to no shirt cuff showing. I almost blamed the tailor that he didn't do his job properly. Upon closer inspection the jacket looked like it had been altered correctly. Something was amiss with the shirt. I couldn't wait to get home so that I could try the jacket with a different shirt. This whole debacle of the missing two inches of shirt cuff played out out on TV no-less, and the observant and style conscious gent would've noticed.

These are the results after I tried the jacket with two different shirts. On the left is the same shirt I'm wearing in the top image and it clearly shows how the jacket's high armhole pulls the lower shirt armhole up which results in no shirt cuff showing. Not even a smidgen. The shirt on the right is an item I picked up from Meltz back in 2009 for a measly R25. I know I say that I have a lot of favourite white shirts but this one is the best of the whole lot. It features a slightly higher armhole and it just shot right out of the jacket sleeve to be in full view. Clearly there's nothing wrong with the jacket, unless I take it for the further sleeve cropping and run the risk of ruining it, however the design and proportion of the shirts needs to be interrogated.

Notice how the shirt in the top image shows a slightly lower armhole, conversely the shirt in the bottom image has a slightly higher armhole. The secret is in the design and proportion of the sleeves. The sleeves in the top image are standard for a shirt with a size 41 neck. The sleeves in the bottom image are slightly longer but do not engulf the wrists and this is augmented by two cuff buttons that make the cuffs button closer to the wrist. If you're faced with the same challenge then you can look for shirt designs that offer longer sleeves and higher armholes. Another option is the online shirt makers who allow the customer to design and insert their measurements or you can take the shirt to your tailor and have the sleeves elongated. The best option, however, is bespoke.

PG: Man to man, generation to generation. 


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