Monday, March 7, 2016

Style: The Khaki Linen Suit


This is probably my favourite suit at the moment; because it's linen and the lightest in colour I have. Khaki linen has been in menswear for decades and this can be attributed to its casual vibe inherent in its colour and fabric. I bought this suit at the same time as the olive green one I have profiled before but it's taken me almost a year to wear it because after I had some alterations done to the trousers I gained some weight and I just couldn't bear altering them again. Per chance I tried on the trousers a few weeks ago and they fit perfectly. From the waist to the seat, on the thighs and through the leg, they are perfect. So much so that I can wear them without a belt. What I love most about this colour and fabric is that it is very summer appropriate. Even though we might be easing out of summer, it is  still an essential on non-work days. I can't think of wearing a wool suit because it just wouldn't be as practical as this linen suit. In Durban's heat and humidity no other fabric performs better than linen.


I have worn this suit for the past three weekends, in different combinations, and I really feel like it wears well. I have been able to overlook a few imperfections and that's a sacrifice I've been willing to make for an off-the-rack suit. While the trousers were in storage I did manage to wear the jacket a few times because I didn't have that many fit issues with it. The jacket has a more than usual high button stance and at times it feels like a three button jacket. I had the sleeves let out because they were quite short and I also had it taken in on the sides just to give it a little bit of shape. I have never been happy with the low armhole and this is something I couldn't do anything about. I have to live with that it and that is one of the losses one has to take when buying a suit off-the-rack.


A light blue gingham shirt and a navy blue pin-dot neck-tie, accessorised with a navy check pocket square and slim tie bar round out the upper body look. Note how everything is in proportion, the jacket lapel, the neck-tie, and the shirt collar. 


I had a single pleat inserted in the trousers because the waist was quite big when I first got them. This also explains why I inserted turn-ups. It is a menswear rule pleats need turn-ups; conversely no pleats require no turn-ups. This is a rule that can be broken however because the overall aesthetic has to be taken into consideration. Since I am a high-waisted man, I am considering removing the turn-ups because I am forced to wear the trousers low on the waist. When I wear them high, the trousers look extremely cropped. I am very comfortable with my trousers on my waist as opposed to my hips.


 A few other notable take-aways: The jacket is fully lined and this adds more heft which is counter practical because linen is supposed to be a light fabric. I would've preferred the sleeves and the upper back/ shoulder blades to be lined because this would make the jacket more breathable and lighter. The trousers are not fully lined because the lining runs to just above the knee. This allows the crotch and buttocks to be covered and the rest of the trouser to be breathable. This feature should've been consistent with the jacket as well and, unfortunately, that's the price you pay for off-the-rack. I am, however, very happy with this suit and its seasonal nature allows me to look comfortable and weather appropriate.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

3 comments:

Sanjay Kumar said...

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Anika Raut said...

Thanks for featuring such a great collection of custom suits for men. Choosing any of these traditional and ethnic style of jackets and suits will indeed add an extra bit of glamour and style to your wedding. I would surely love to read more articles related to men's wedding fashion and formal wears. Do keep writing. Kudos to your work.

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