Showing posts with label Style. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Style. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 24, 2014

Style: The Navy Suit Broken Up


Ever since I received this navy blue suit with a micro windowpane check I have tried to wear it in many different ways. This is one thing I've learned about a suit and versatility; you've got to be able to break it up and wear the two or three pieces as separates. So, the first look I tried with the navy suit was to wear the jacket with a pair of neutral chinos and a light blue gingham shirt.


The one thing that works instantly with this pairing are the fabric of the jacket and the chinos. The jacket is 100% wool, which is very light and makes it a very suitable candidate as a four season suit in Durban. The chinos are cotton and therefore in terms of texture there is congruence. The slight aberration, unnoticeable for that matter, is in the fact that the jacket styling is very formal and therefore it makes it difficult to wear the jacket as a casual piece. The discerning eye will definitely spot this inconsistency. For me it's not make or break because everything else flows especially in terms of fit and proportion. If the jacket had patch pockets and other features like elbow patches then it could definitely be worn as a casual separate all the time, even with jeans. Right now, I suppose I'm hoping to roll incognito before the purists call me out.


It's a casual ensemble therefore everything else had to be in line with the theme; brown tassel loafers and a brown D-ring belt.


What's good for the jacket is sure enough good for the trousers; this is another casual ensemble. This time I decided to wear the trousers separate and complemented them with a host of casual pieces and accessories.


I decided to go with a mini windowpane button down check shirt, a CAT Apparel denim jacket and brown woven belt.


Apart from the versatility of a suit especially a navy one, to go the extra mile in terms of styling and combinations, make sure the fit and proportion are on point. If you can do that then you can pretty much get away with anything, even the suit as a whole without anything under the jacket like Eddie Murphy in Boomerang.


Once again, besides the formal design of the trousers, I think the ensemble is fairly congruent because everything fits and in proportion. 


One last combination I tried was a a brown waistcoat with a subtle plaid pattern, a burgundy/ claret quilted jacket, and a light blue double cuff shirt and the navy trousers. This combination is almost all formal except for the quilted jacket which I wore as outerwear. 


I think I also erred in not wearing a tie because it looks like I took it off after work or something like that. A necktie would've added an air of seriousness coupled with creativity and playfulness. A necktie would've been the one piece to add gravitas to the ensemble and draw attention to the right points as well.


Ultimately, this suit or any well proportioned suit can be worn in myriad ways. I'm not done with this one because summer's still coming and as I alluded earlier, it is quite a lightweight suit. I'm sure I could even go for a white or grey T-shirt and some canvas sneakers. The combinations are endless.



PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Style: High Armhole Jacket + Low Armhole Shirt = No Cuff Showing


One thing I forgot to add in Monday's post about the navy blue suit is that the jacket sleeves were a tad long and I had them altered because it's only right that some shirt cuff show. The guideline is that at least two inches of shirt cuff should show. I was taken aback a bit when I discovered that even after having the sleeves altered on my jacket I had little to no shirt cuff showing. I almost blamed the tailor that he didn't do his job properly. Upon closer inspection the jacket looked like it had been altered correctly. Something was amiss with the shirt. I couldn't wait to get home so that I could try the jacket with a different shirt. This whole debacle of the missing two inches of shirt cuff played out out on TV no-less, and the observant and style conscious gent would've noticed.


These are the results after I tried the jacket with two different shirts. On the left is the same shirt I'm wearing in the top image and it clearly shows how the jacket's high armhole pulls the lower shirt armhole up which results in no shirt cuff showing. Not even a smidgen. The shirt on the right is an item I picked up from Meltz back in 2009 for a measly R25. I know I say that I have a lot of favourite white shirts but this one is the best of the whole lot. It features a slightly higher armhole and it just shot right out of the jacket sleeve to be in full view. Clearly there's nothing wrong with the jacket, unless I take it for the further sleeve cropping and run the risk of ruining it, however the design and proportion of the shirts needs to be interrogated.


Notice how the shirt in the top image shows a slightly lower armhole, conversely the shirt in the bottom image has a slightly higher armhole. The secret is in the design and proportion of the sleeves. The sleeves in the top image are standard for a shirt with a size 41 neck. The sleeves in the bottom image are slightly longer but do not engulf the wrists and this is augmented by two cuff buttons that make the cuffs button closer to the wrist. If you're faced with the same challenge then you can look for shirt designs that offer longer sleeves and higher armholes. Another option is the online shirt makers who allow the customer to design and insert their measurements or you can take the shirt to your tailor and have the sleeves elongated. The best option, however, is bespoke.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation. 

Monday, July 28, 2014

Style: The Navy Blue Suit


It's been a while since I last posted and the lack of posts can be attributed to a focus on quality rather than quantity. I really feel that I should be posting quality pieces that should inform, engage and get people talking. Trying to go for five posts a week is not logical; put that aside, I am finding it a little difficult to find the time to blog. Rest assured though that my absence is also spent thinking about posts and subjects that would be of interest to me and would appeal to you. Let me also thank you for always checking in and taking the time to read my posts, I appreciate it. I hold firmly to the belief that I have my own contribution to make to menswear and I won't give up on this journey.


I recently obtained this navy blue suit with a micro window-pane check; the suit is by Trenery and for an off-the-rack suit I should say that it holds quite well to the quality test. I'm really digging it. The jacket has a high armhole with a deep V and two button closure. I enjoy the fact with a deep V it allows for the necktie to be on full display and the buttoning itself is comfortable and not restrictive. The close-ups of the suit clearly evince the pattern. It is made of 100% wool and what I like most is the fact that the trousers are unlined. This is a very light wool but I find that it holds quite well in a sub-tropical winter. Once I started thinking about the accessories to wear with the suit I started with a white shirt. I have this theory about navy and grey suits and pairing them with a white shirt; a white shirt will look better with black shoes and a blue shirt with any variation of brown. In this case the white shirt I wore is one of my favourites, a double cuff item I've had for over five years. It's still looking good and is in pristine condition. Once I had the shirt figured out, I opted for a Pierre Cardin tie with a blue, grey and navy check. You might think that the tie and cufflinks are from the same family but tis not so. I bought this tie last year and the cufflinks I've had since 2010. They're from a tie, pocket square, tie bar box set. The colours just happen to complement and don't match each other.


I like a taut fit around my waist and since this trouser is a 34 inch waist, I had no alterations done on it. Since I was swimming in a sea of blue accessories I topped things off with these royal blue suspenders; very comfortable and the right fit. A proper fit around the waist obviously obviates a belt and this is what I always aim for. A navy blue suit is one of the most versatile suits a gentleman can have in his wardrobe. It is an essential wardrobe staple as it presents you with numerous combinations and myriad looks. This, in my opinion, is one of the first suits any gentleman should purchase.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Friday, July 11, 2014

Style: Winter Layers


A cold front is sweeping the country right now and it seems we have more cold weather coming right up until the weekend. And this can only mean that a gent has to take precautionary measures in order to counter the cold. I decided to get creative but stylish, and also pack on the layers because I just don't handle being cold well. 


I haven't worn a scully/ knit hat in years and this time the weather really called for it. As an accessory I decided to pair it with this slim polo neck jersey; I also decided to keep the colours in the family. I like the versatility of a polo neck, especially how it can be dressed up or down, it makes it an essential and worthwhile addition to a gent's wardrobe. Something that's a little awkward is the fit of the polo neck through the neck; I don't know whether it's because I haven't worn it in a long time but the it just feels a little weird or maybe it might take a little getting used to. This denim jacket by CAT® Apparel is quite thick and it forms a warm layering piece. I'm still trying to figure out how to match it colours because it doesn't strike me as blue nor does it look grey.


These are my favourite winter trousers by far; light grey, 100% wool by BRAX. If I could have more of them in a variety of autumn/ winter shades I'd be complete. They also have great insulation inside and this helps in keeping the cold at bay. I've had a lot of extensive work done on them and this is a subject I plan on posting about soon, just to show the amount of work that's been undertaken.



I rounded off with this black nylon raincoat with a warm lining. It's waterproof but at the same time it keeps me warm. I had a little work done on it in terms of tapering the sleeves and it came out wonderfully. Since the trousers are dressy are opted for the black Barker oxfords. A black suede chelsea or navy blue chukka boots would be the best choice.



PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Saturday, June 28, 2014

Style: Fashion And Style At The 2014 NBA Draft

Andrew Wiggins - It appears that every once in a while the number draft pick has to come out in something bold and attention grabbing; this was it. Going sockless was ill-advised though.

Well, the 2014 NBA Draft has come and gone and there some surprises for me. I didn't expect Elfrid Payton Jr to go so high at number 10. It was also perplexing how the Sixers could draft Joel Embiid, the Cameroonian big man, at number three, considering the fact he is currently out with a foot injury which could take up to 12 months to heal. Doesn't make sense to me, especially after the whole Andrew Bynum debacle, Nerlens Noel as well, Royce White...I'm sure you get the picture. Most importantly we should be happy that the style of the 90s, ballers with 5/ 6 button suits, is long gone but not forgotten. This year's crop of young fashionable gents held it down in conservative, edgy, trendy, fashion forward, and safe looks. A few things stood out for me with each pick and this is my take on things.

Jabari Parker - That brand Jordan tie bar.

Marcus Smart - Midnight blue shawl collar tux jacket.

Shabazz Napier - Very safe, all greyed out look.

Tyler Ennis - Double breasted, double stripe suit with brown buttons.

Aaron Gordon - Monogrammed shirt.

Adreian Payne - This is straight-up 70s fly; big, bold, rounded bow-tie, colourful pocket square, violet trousers and the matching boutonniere. It doesn't get more colourful than this.

Julius Randle - Colour coordinated pocket square and boutonniere.

Dario Saric - Patterned shirt, bow-tie and beltless.

Nik Stauskas - Big, bold, peak lapel windowpane.

Noah Vonleh - Contrast colour shirt matching with the pocket square.

T.J. Warren - Matching details; contrast collar shirt with matching tie, and red candy stripe matching with red sleeve buttons and lapel stitch.

Elfrid Payton Jr - Safe, conservative double breasted look.

And in the most touching moment of the evening a projected pick, Isaiah Austin of Baylor University, received an honourary selection from commissioner Adam Silver. He suffers from Marfan Syndrome, a genetic disorder, which precludes him from playing competitive basketball. How he played at the collegiate level and actually came within a draft pick of playing in the NBA is a testament of his strength, determination and willpower.




PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Monday, June 16, 2014

Style: Basketball and Style

                     

So, God has blessed me immensely, I take absolutely no credit for all the good things happening in my life. It is all the good Lord's doing. This video is just a teaser about my upcoming profile as a SuperSport basketball commentator and analyst. This is something I am doing on the side and what I enjoy most about it, is that I get to channel my creativity and energy into something I love. Forget being on TV, that's awesome, but being able to access peoples' homes and communicate and regale them with the game of basketball is an indescribable feeling. Prior to season 2, my director of basketball at SuperSport informed me that he would be coming down to Durban to shoot a profile on me. The whole concept revolved around my interest in the game and how far I've come. This was also an opportunity for me to speak and showcase something about my other passion: menswear and style. The video was shot on location at Durban's Suncoast and Towers Hotel. I also received a pair of Jordan 1s and a hoodie sponsored by Shesha Lifestyle. Since basketball is the epicentre of a confluence of sporting and popular cultures and other sub-genres, our whole approach is to incorporate and showcase a cross section of basketball as a cultural and lifestyle movement.


This has also expedited something that I thought would take longer than I expected: Perfect Gentleman TV. Even though this is sports related, I am also getting an opportunity to showcase my style and the platform I use to express it, which is this blog. I am not a stylist, but, my colleagues ask for styling tips and suggestions on anything related to our on-air appearances. Our director also wanted us to try the sneakers with suits look, something I approached with ambivalence. After a weekend in suits and J's, however, I am sold on the idea. I just need to invest in more Jordan's or get a sponsor, but, the suit and sneakers look isn't garish at all. Especially if you know how to wear them. Fit is key, it's the make or break factor. There are many more things in store, especially for this blog, and being in Johannesburg every now and then aids in this journey. I am just grateful for such a unique opportunity. I hope you enjoy the little visuals presented in the video.

I would also like to give a big shout out and word of gratitude to Shesha Lifestyle for the Jordan gear. The last time I wore Jordan's I was still at university playing on the basketball team. Thanks for taking me back in a good way.


My colleagues and I shooting links for Courtside, a basketball magazine show. On the left KP Ndlovu wearing the Barcelona Jordan's and Quintin Denyssen in the Oreos. That's me in a suit and a grey henley; we are pushing and aiming to revolutionise menswear in broadcasting, especially sports.

You can catch us on SuperSport channel 210/ SuperSport Select on Friday evenings from 17:45 and Sunday afternoons from 12:45.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Tuesday, May 27, 2014

Style: How I Packed For A Three Day Trip


I recently had the pleasure to go on a quick midweek trip to Botswana and this time I made it my mission to pack appropriately, but most importantly, lightly. I've packed before but not as efficiently, functionally and practically as this. I actually made it a point to go for pieces that would be winter appropriate and interchangeable. I'm extremely apprehensive when it comes to my luggage on planes, therefore, I opt for carry-on luggage because it's safer that way. And now I have definitely found the secret to packing lightly and ensuring that my luggage stays safe.


This is what I packed and I most definitely put a lot of thought into it:

Two grey trousers, light and charcoal
One terracotta corduroy pants
One navy blue blazer
Black cap-toe oxfords
Tan bluchers


Two shirts, red, and light blue gingham
One light grey V-neck jersey
Three pairs of socks
Fleece pants and black V-neck Jockey sleeping tee


The accessories were as follows:

Two belts, black and tan
Three handkerchiefs
Three pocket squares
Two wristwatches
And one toiletry bag.

 If you take away the light grey trousers, the light blue check shirt with a red over-check (not counted in the shirt count), then the size of the load automatically lessens. Everything, pretty much, complemented each other, therefore, I was happy with the outcome and the fact that none of the clothes would go waste. I was definitely going to wear everything. I packed everything in a Cat Apparel duffel bag and I was also able to fit a 17 inch laptop, and there was still space left to fit more things. This is, without a doubt, my go to travel bag.


Exactly 10 minutes after taking the above picture I received a call from the company I was going to do work for and they informed me that I could no longer go on the trip because Botswana doesn't take a temporary passport. So, I packed for nothing but I got something valuable out of the experience. Here's to more trips that I'll be well prepared for.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Monday, May 26, 2014

Style: Shades Of Navy Blue


I am really loving the autumn weather because it doesn't necessitate layering up, however, it allows me to dress in heavier fabrics and rougher textures. It's great knowing that certain articles of clothing are relegated for certain times of the year. Like this dark navy blue double breasted jacket by Pierre Cardin, it could never fly in summer because it's really heavy. I feel the weight on my shoulders and the drape across the chest. So, it's very appropriate for autumn and winter. And being in a coastal city with sub-tropical climate, it makes sense that a jacket will suffice in both form and function as opposed to layering up in a three piece suit or an odd waistcoat. I'm still a sucker for double breasted jackets and I intend, and should get more.


There's just something rewarding about taking care of your clothes. Old clothes that have been well maintained have a beautiful story to tell. I have had these trousers, also in a dark navy blue, with wide rice stripes since 2007/8, I just can't remember clearly, but they have really stood the test of time. They have been through waist, length and hem alterations. They were even glued at the hem after the turn-ups were taken out, and now they have been fully restored. I'm quite fond of and enjoy wearing them. The slight itchiness inside suggests that there could be some polyester but I surmise that they are mostly wool. On cold days they really play the part of being a warm and insulating layer. Many a times I read how some gents try to figure out if there are rules to dress. Yes, there are, however, since men's fashion and menswear have advanced, the rules that once governed the way we dress have somewhat fallen away and style has largely become subjective. Very personal. This brings me to my point about these exact trousers. I suppose I could wear them with a slimmer taper, turn-ups, and a higher hem, however, I'm very comfortable with them this way. They have a full trouser break, a longer hem and a looser fit around the thighs, throughout the leg. I wear most of my winter dress trousers this way, just for an added element of comfort and warmth. So, to other gents out there who are still trying to find their way around a new found sense of style, develop your own way around fit, however, paying attention to the rules is a great place to start.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Monday, May 19, 2014

Style: Pattern Mixing And Wools


There is a lot of truth in the statement that if you learn the basics of style, menswear and dressing presentably, and after unrelenting practice, everything will come easy and effortlessly to you thereafter. Pattern mixing is one such area that I have come to manifest without any challenges. I almost completely forgot about this jacket. It is a navy, frame stripe, wool/poly mix, which somehow slipped my mind. I was just about reaching for my navy double breasted jacket when my eye caught it. From there it was a wrap. I combined the jacket with a 100% silk large stripe tie and a hairline stripe shirt. It is pattern mixing coherence at its best because all three patterns differ in size. From a distance the shirt looks solid but upon closer inspection it is a very fine hairline stripe.


On the lower extremities I went with these sapphire blue trousers which are part of a suit (I have posted about before), I hope to be posting about how I have remixed this very suit in the near future. These trousers are at their most comfortable right now. I had them altered at the waist, as alluded in the previous post, and the seat was too tight. Whenever I would walk there would be intense pulling in the crotch and between the thighs. However, this time around, they felt very comfortable, with no pulling in the crotch or wedging up the thighs. The length is perfect because they rest on the shoe, there is no ankle showing even when walking; it is colder after all. Even the tapering of the hem is to my satisfaction.

Just a few points of interest about the jacket: I bought it off the rack and I am quite impressed with its construction. It is a two button, and the first thing you notice is how deep the V is. For an off the rack that is  rare. It features a single vent and...high arm holes. I am very impressed. It is a size 40R and that means it fits well on the shoulders and drapes comfortably across the chest. I'm not too picky about the fabric; it's serviceable for a not so cold autumn.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Saturday, May 17, 2014

Style: Style And Fashion During The 2014 NBA Playoffs

Blake Griffin in all slim everything

The Perfect Gentleman blog is incomplete without a post about NBA fashion. At heart I'm a baller, so it's just a natural progression to, every now and then, show the game of basketball a little love. I think I missed the memo regarding the relaxing of the dress code in the NBA. For many years a suit and tie was mandatory, when the change occurred is what I am trying to determine. A suit is scarce, instead, players have opted for smart casual ensembles which are both presentable and also very trendy and fashion forward. So, courtesy of Sports Illustrated, this is a look at some of the style players are exhibiting in the playoffs. And, just for the record, I' riding with the San Antonio Spurs all the way to the championship.

Thursday, May 8, 2014

Style: The Corduroy Suit For Autumn

 
I've been thinking about a corduroy suit for quite some time and I think this might be the time you consider it too. It's quite versatile. So, I put together this layout with a tan corduroy suit as the foundation piece. This is just a microcosm of the potential reach a corduroy suit has both as one piece or when it is broken up and worn as separate pieces. Even though it can be dressed up, it is better suited for weekend wear because of the casual character it exudes. I have a tan linen suit I am rearing to wear come summer but in winter a tan corduroy suit is a stylish way of standing out. I am a little sceptical of leather shoes and whether they are well suited for a corduroy suit, however, I included those rubber soled high boat shoes as a leather just to continue the casual vibe. It goes without saying therefore that the brown suede monkstraps are befitting especially when considering the textures involved. Even though it's warm enough as a stand alone piece without any outerwear, I added the navy quilted jacket because it's versatile on its own and that it supplant the jacket.
 
I really can't say I've seen anyone wearing it in Durban, however, this is a great opportunity to start searching for one.
 
 
PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Style: Voting Day Look


It is a glorious day today, indicative of what autumn in Durban entails. Sunny and warm with a light breeze, great day for family. I decided on a casual but presentable look while heading to the polling station. It's also comfortable for relaxing at home the whole day. It was also an opportunity for me to tap into autumn's colour palette by wearing this button down salmon shirt from Woolworths and the almond brogues by Bishop. If I'd worn a navy blazer I'd be treading on business casual territory, however, this slim, light, navy blue shawl collar cardigan is the difference maker. It's warm outside but the breeze has a slight chill, so the cardigan is a practical insulating layer. Navy blue can get quite familiar and mundane. It would appear that going for it evokes a sense of lack of imagination sometimes. That's why I need to get myself a cream white shawl collar cardigan. Now that would be imaginative and adventurous.


PG: Man to man, generation to generation.

Monday, April 14, 2014

Style: Autumn Colours For Casual Pants

Levi's 511 Maroon
 
Levi's 501 Green Ivy
 
Levi's Kangaroo Brown Commuter Jeans
 
Levi's Autumnal Orange Cargo Pants
 
 
 
PG: Man to man, generation to generation.